Hagia Sophia Istanbul: A Journey Through Byzantium, Empire & Time

Αγία Σοφία − Κωνσταντινούπολη − Hagia Sophia

Hagia Sophia (in Greek: Aγία Σοφία meaning Holy Wisdom/in Latin: Sancta Sophia or Sancta Sapientia, in Turkish: Ayasofya) in Istanbul is one of the world’s most extraordinary monuments—a place where Byzantine grandeur, Ottoman devotion, and centuries of layered history meet beneath one immense dome. There are tons of bibliography on Hagia Sophia to go through, in case you’re interested but you can start from the basic Wikipedia trivia. It’s a majestic place and we’ve been meaning to visit it for years.

Δε χρειάζονται συστάσεις! Εάν θέλετε να εντρυφήσετε σε ιστορικές λεπτομέρειες υπάρχουν τόνοι βιβλιογραφίας, εγώ ένα έχω μόνο να σας πω: ο ξεναγός μου, Τούρκος αρχιτέκτονας με πολλά ταξίδια στο ενεργητικό του σε απίστευτους αρχαιολογικούς προορισμούς (όπως στην Παλαιά Οχυρωμένη Πόλη του Σιμπάμ στην Υεμένη, στην αρχαία Καρχηδόνα & στη Μεδίνα της Σους στην Τυνησία, στο αρχαιολογικό πάρκο της Μερβ στο Τουρκμενιστάν, στην αρχαία πόλη Χαττούσα & στην Τροία στην Τουρκία,  στην αρχαία πόλη της Δαμασκού & στον αρχαιολογικό χώρο της Παλμύρα στη Συρία,  στους αρχαιολογικούς χώρους της επαρχίας Ναπατάν στο Σουδάν, στην Ιστορική Τζέντα στη Σαουδική Αραβία αλλά και σε πολλά άλλα μνημεία σε Ευρώπη και Ρωσία), επέμενε πως η Αγία Σοφία είναι το αγαπημένο του μέρος σε ολόκληρο τον κόσμο!!

THE Hagia sophia dome

The dome of Hagia Sophia has spurred particular interest for many art historians, architects, and engineers because of the innovative way the original architects envisioned it. Four spherical triangular pendentives carry the cupola, a feature that was first fully realized in this building. The pendentives implement the transition from the circular base of the dome to the rectangular base below, restraining the lateral forces of the dome and allowing its weight to flow downwards. They were reinforced with buttresses during Byzantine and later during Ottoman times, under the guidance of the architect Mimar Sinan. The dome’s weight remained a problem for most of the building’s existence. The original cupola collapsed entirely after the quake of 558; in 563, Isidore the Younger, a nephew of Isidore of Miletus, built a new dome (a larger section of that second dome later collapsed again).

THE Hagia Sophia architecture

Although its design stabilizes the dome and the surrounding walls and arches, the actual construction of the walls of Hagia Sophia weakened the overall structure. The bricklayers used more mortar than brick, weakening the walls. The structure would have been more stable if the builders at least let the mortar cure before they began the next layer; however, they did not! When the dome was erected, its weight caused the walls to lean outward because of the wet mortar underneath. When Isidore the Younger rebuilt the fallen cupola, he had to build up the interior of the walls first to make them vertical again.

Additionally, the architect raised the height of the rebuilt dome by approximately six meters so that the lateral forces would not be as strong and its weight would flow more easily down into the walls. Moreover, he shaped the new cupola like a scalloped shell or the inside of an umbrella, with ribs that extend from the top down to the base. These ribs allow the dome’s weight to flow between the windows, down the pendentives, and ultimately to the foundation.

Hagia Sophia is famous for the light that reflects everywhere in the nave’s interior, giving the dome the appearance of floating or hovering above the ground. This effect was achieved by inserting forty windows around the base of the original structure.

THE Hagia Sophia Seraphim

Basil II commissioned giant six-winged Seraphim to be painted, one on each of the four pendentives of the dome. When the church was converted into a Mosque, their faces were covered with golden halos (you can read about Aniconism in Islam here), but in 2009, one of the Seraphim was restored to its original state.

Τέσσερα εξαπτέρυγα Σεραφείμ κοσμούν τα λοφία του τρούλου από την εποχή του Βασιλείου του Βουλγαροκτόνου. Όταν η Αγία Σοφία μετατράπηκε σε τζαμί τα πρόσωπα τους καλύφθηκαν καθώς η απεικόνιση «έμβιων» όντων δεν επιτρέπεται στα Μουσουλμανικά τεμένη. Κατά τη διάρκεια εργασιών αποκατάστασης όμως, το 2009, αποφασίστηκε να αποκαλυφθεί το πρόσωπο ενός εξ’ αυτών.

more of the interior

the mihrab

The Mihrab is located in the apse where the altar used to stand and is slightly off-centered to point towards Mecca. It’s the only interior Mihrab of its kind—not centered— since the temple was not originally designed as a Mosque and a Mihrab’s position had not been planned for.

Το Μιχράμπ (η ημικυκλική εσοχή που υπάρχει στο τείχος ενός ισλαμικού τεμένους και υποδεικνύει την κίμπλα, δηλαδή την κατεύθυνση προς την Κάαμπα στη Μέκκα στην οποία στρέφονται οι Μουσουλμάνοι κατά την διάρκεια της προσευχής) δημιουργήθηκε στη θέση του Ιερού μετά την άλωση και γι’ αυτό δεν βρίσκεται, όπως θα έπρεπε, ακριβώς στο κέντρο του τείχους –που θεωρούνταν Τείχος της Κίμπλα– αλλά ελαφρώς στραμμένο Ανατολικά για να δείχνει σωστά την κατεύθυνση προς τη Μέκκα.

THE Hagia Sophia mosaics

The Southwestern Entrance Mosaic

The southwestern entrance mosaic, situated in the tympanum of the doorway, dates from the reign of Basil II. It was rediscovered during restorations in 1849. Virgin Mary sits on a throne without a back, her feet resting on a pedestal embellished with precious stones. The Child Christ sits on her lap, giving His blessing and holding a scroll in His left hand. On the left stands Emperor Justinian I, offering a model of the Hagia Sophia. On the right stands Emperor Constantine in ceremonial attire, presenting a model of the city to Mary. The inscription on his side says: “Great emperor Constantine of the Saints.” The medallions on both sides of the Virgin’s head carry the monograms MP and ΘY, an abbreviation of Mētēr and Theou, meaning Mother of God.

The Deësis Mosaic

The Deësis mosaic (Δέησις, “Entreaty”) probably dates from 1261. It was commissioned to mark the end of 57 years of Roman Catholic use and the return to the Orthodox faith. It is the third panel in the imperial enclosure of the upper galleries, considered the finest in Hagia Sophia because of the softness of the features, humane expressions, and the tones of the mosaic. The style is close to that of late 13th or early 14th-century Italian painters like Duccio. In this panel, the Virgin Mary and John the Baptist, both shown in three-quarters profile, are imploring the intercession of Christ for humanity on Judgment Day.

The Comnenus Mosaic

The Comnenus mosaic, also located on the eastern wall of the southern gallery, dates back to 1122. The Virgin Mary stands in the middle, depicted in a dark blue gown. She carries Child Christ on her lap. He gives his blessing with his right hand while holding a scroll in his left hand. On the left stands emperor John II Comnenus, in a garb embellished with precious stones. He holds a purse, a symbol of an imperial donation to the church.

Empress Irene stands on the right, wearing ceremonial garments and offering a document. One can see a difference between this and the Empress Zoe mosaic, which is one century older (see right below). The portraits have a more realistic expression instead of an idealized representation. The empress has plaited blond hair, rosy cheeks, and grey eyes, revealing her Hungarian descent. The emperor is depicted in a dignified manner.

The Empress Zoe Mosaic

The Empress Zoe mosaic on the eastern wall of the southern gallery dates back to the 11th century. Christ, clad in a dark blue robe (as is the custom in Byzantine art), sits in the middle against a golden background, giving his blessing with the right hand and holding the Bible in his left. On either side of his head are the monograms IC and XC, meaning Iēsous Khristos. He is flanked by Constantine IX Monomachus and Empress Zoe, both in ceremonial costumes. Constantine offers a purse, while Empress Zoe produces a scroll, symbolizing their donations to the church.

The inscription over the head of the emperor says: “Constantine, pious emperor in Christ the God, king of the Romans, Monomachus.” The inscription over the head of the empress reads: “Zoë, the very pious Augusta.” Previous heads have been scraped off and replaced by the three present ones. One of the theories is that this mosaic had been made for an earlier emperor and empress, with their heads changed later on into the present ones.

The Imperial Gate Mosaic

The Imperial Gate mosaic is located in the tympanum above that gate used only by the emperors when entering the church. Based on style analysis, it is dated back to the late 9th or early 10th century. The emperor with the nimbus/halo could represent emperor Leo VI the Wise or his son Constantine VII Porphyrogenitus, bowing down before Christ, sitting on a jeweled throne, giving his blessing, and holding an open book in his left hand. The text on the book reads as follows: “Peace be with you. I am the light of the world.” (John 20:19; 20:26; 8:12) On each side of Christ’s shoulders is a circular medallion: on his left, Archangel Gabriel holding a staff, and on his right, his Mother Mary.

Scaffolding, Secrets & Hollywood

Time, weather, and earthquakes have taken their toll on Hagia Sophia through the years, so restoration works have been constantly conducted in the past decade(s)—something painfully obvious in lots of my images even though I did my best to avoid scaffoldings and random wires. There’s a commitment to complete all restoration processes by this coming fall because Hollywood is calling: the site will be used in the new Dan Brown movie, and Robert Langdon (aka Tom Hanks) will supposedly be running all over the place!

Ο χρόνος, το κλίμα και οι σεισμοί έχουν σημαδέψει την Αγία Σοφία μέσα στους αιώνες και τις τελευταίες δεκαετίες είναι ασταμάτητες οι εργασίες αποκατάστασης του ναού, τόσο στους εξωτερικούς όσο και στους εσωτερικούς χώρους (σε πολλές από τις φωτογραφίες μου είναι εμφανείς οι σκαλωσιές). Ωστόσο γίνονται προσπάθειες να ολοκληρωθούν φέτος το καλοκαίρι καθώς ο ναός θα χρησιμοποιηθεί στα γυρίσματα νέας ταινίας βασισμένης στα περίφημα πλέον βιβλία του Dan Brown και ο… καθηγήτης Robert Langdon βιάζεται να σεργιανίσει στα μωσαϊκά της ανεμπόδιστος!

*All info from wikipedia
Images by Athina D. Pantazatou for Kicking Back the Pebbles