Istanbul {part 1 of 4} Hagia Sophia

Αγία Σοφία ~ Κωνσταντινούπολη ~ Hagia Sophia

Δεν χρειάζονται συστάσεις! Εάν θέλετε να εντρυφήσετε σε ιστορικές λεπτομέρειες υπάρχουν τόνοι βιβλιογραφίας, εγώ ένα έχω μόνο να σας πω: ο ξεναγός μου, Τούρκος αρχιτέκτονας με πολλά ταξίδια στο ενεργητικό του σε απίστευτους αρχαιολογικούς χώρους (όπως στην Παλαιά Οχυρωμένη Πόλη του Σιμπάμ στην Υεμένη, στην αρχαία Καρχηδόνα & στη Μεδίνα της Σους στην Τυνησία, στο αρχαιολογικό πάρκο της Μερβ στο Τουρκμενιστάν, στην αρχαία πόλη Χαττούσα & στην Τροία στην Τουρκία,  στην αρχαία πόλη της Δαμασκού & στον αρχαιολογικό χώρο της Παλμύρα στη Συρία,  στους αρχαιολογικούς χώρους της επαρχίας Ναπατάν στο Σουδάν, στην Ιστορική Τζέντα στη Σαουδική Αραβία αλλά και σε πολλά άλλα μνημεία σε Ευρώπη και Ρωσία), επέμενε πως η Αγία Σοφία είναι το αγαπημένο του μέρος σε ολόκληρο τον κόσμο!!

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There are tons of bibliography on Hagia Sophia {in Greek: Aγία Σοφία meaning Holy Wisdom/in Latin: Sancta Sophia or Sancta Sapientia/in Turkish: Ayasofya} to go through, in case you’re interested, but you can start from the basic Wikipedia trivia here. It’s a magical place to be in and I’ve been dreaming of visiting it for years! 

The dome of Hagia Sophia has spurred particular interest for many art historians, architects and engineers because of the innovative way the original architects envisioned it. The cupola is carried on four spherical triangular pendentives, an element which was first fully realized in this building. The pendentives implement the transition from the circular base of the dome to the rectangular base below, restraining the lateral forces of the dome and allowing its weight to flow downwards. They were reinforced with buttresses during Byzantine and later during Ottoman times, under the guidance of the architect Mimar Sinan. The weight of the dome remained a problem for most of the building’s existence. The original cupola collapsed entirely after the quake of 558; in 563 a new dome was built by Isidore the Younger, a nephew of Isidore of Miletus. (A larger section of the second dome later collapsed again).

Although its design stabilizes the dome and the surrounding walls and arches, the actual construction of the walls of Hagia Sophia weakened the overall structure. The bricklayers used more mortar than brick, weakening the walls. The structure would have been more stable if the builders at least let the mortar cure before they began the next layer; however, they did not! When the dome was erected, its weight caused the walls to lean outward because of the wet mortar underneath. When Isidore the Younger rebuilt the fallen cupola, he had to first build up the interior of the walls to make them vertical again. Additionally, the architect raised the height of the rebuilt dome by approximately six metres so that the lateral forces would not be as strong and its weight would flow more easily down into the walls. Moreover, he shaped the new cupola like a scalloped shell or the inside of an umbrella, with ribs that extend from the top down to the base. These ribs allow the weight of the dome to flow between the windows, down the pendentives, and ultimately to the foundation.

Hagia Sophia is famous for the light that reflects everywhere in the interior of the nave, giving the dome the appearance of floating or hovering above the ground. This effect was achieved by inserting forty windows around the base of the original structure.

Source: Wikipedia

Basil II commissioned giant six-winged Cherubs to be painted, one on each of the four pendentives of the main dome. When the church was converted into a Mosque their faces were covered with golden halos (read about Aniconism in Islam here), but in 2009 one of them was restored to its original state.

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Τέσσερα εξαπτέρυγα Χερουβείμ κοσμούν τα λοφία του τρούλου από την εποχή του Βασιλείου του Βουλγαροκτόνου. Όταν η Αγία Σοφία μετατράπηκε σε τζαμί τα πρόσωπα τους καλύφθηκαν καθώς η απεικόνιση “έμβιων” όντων δεν επιτρέπεται στα Μουσουλμανικά τεμένη. Κατά τη διάρκεια εργασιών αποκατάστασης όμως, το 2009, αποφασίστηκε να αποκαλυφθεί το πρόσωπο ενός εξ’ αυτών.

The Mihrab is located in the apse where the altar used to stand, and is slightly off-centered to point towards Mecca. It’s the only interior Mihrab of its kind –not centered that is– since the temple was not originally designed as a Mosque and a Mihrab’s position (well, a Mihrab altogether!) had not been planned for.

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Το Μιχράμπ (η ημικυκλική εσοχή που υπάρχει στο τείχος ενός ισλαμικού τεμένους και υποδεικνύει την κίμπλα, δηλαδή την κατεύθυνση προς την Κάαμπα στη Μέκκα στην οποία στρέφονται οι Μουσουλμάνοι κατά την διάρκεια της προσευχής) δημιουργήθηκε στη θέση του Ιερού μετά την άλωση και γι’ αυτό δεν βρίσκεται, όπως θα έπρεπε, ακριβώς στο κέντρο του τείχους –που θεωρούνταν Τείχος της Κίμπλα– αλλά ελαφρώς στραμμένο Ανατολικά για να δείχνει σωστά την κατεύθυνση προς τη Μέκκα!

 

 

The Mosaics

The Southwestern Entrance Mosaic

The southwestern entrance mosaic, situated in the tympanum of the southwestern entrance, dates from the reign of Basil II. It was rediscovered during restorations in 1849. Virgin Mary sits on a throne without a back, her feet resting on a pedestal, embellished with precious stones. The Child Christ sits on her lap, giving His blessing and holding a scroll in His left hand. On her left side stands emperor Constantine in ceremonial attire, presenting a model of the city to Mary. The inscription next to him says: “Great emperor Constantine of the Saints”. On her right side stands emperor Justinian I, offering a model of the Hagia Sophia. The medallions on both sides of the Virgin’s head carry the monograms MP and ΘY, an abbreviation of “Mētēr” and “Theou“, meaning “Mother of God”.

The Deësis Mosaic

The Deësis mosaic (Δέησις, “Entreaty”) probably dates from 1261. It was commissioned to mark the end of 57 years of Roman Catholic use and the return to the Orthodox faith. It is the third panel situated in the imperial enclosure of the upper galleries. It is widely considered the finest in Hagia Sophia, because of the softness of the features, the humane expressions and the tones of the mosaic. The style is close to that of the Italian painters of the late 13th or early 14th century, such as Duccio. In this panel the Virgin Mary and John the Baptist, both shown in three-quarters profile, are imploring the intercession of Christ for humanity on Judgment Day.

The Comnenus Mosaic

The Comnenus mosaic, also located on the eastern wall of the southern gallery dates back to 1122. Virgin Mary is standing in the middle, depicted in a dark blue gown. She holds Child Christ on her lap. He gives His blessing with His right hand while holding a scroll in His left hand. On her right side stands emperor John II Comnenus, in a garb embellished with precious stones. He holds a purse, symbol of an imperial donation to the church. Empress Irene stands on the left side of the Virgin, wearing ceremonial garments and offering a document. One can see a difference between this and the Empress Zoe mosaic that is one century older (see right below). There is a more realistic expression in the portraits instead of an idealized representation. The empress is shown with plaited blond hair, rosy cheeks and grey eyes, revealing her Hungarian descent. The emperor is depicted in a dignified manner.

The Empress Zoe Mosaic

The Empress Zoe mosaic on the eastern wall of the southern gallery dates back to the 11th century. Christ, clad in a dark blue robe (as is the custom in Byzantine art), is seated in the middle against a golden background, giving His blessing with the right hand and holding the Bible in His left. On either side of His head are the monograms IC and XC, meaning Iēsous Khristos. He is flanked by Constantine IX Monomachus and Empress Zoe, both in ceremonial costumes. Constantine is offering a purse, as symbol of the donation he made to the church, while Empress Zoe is holding a scroll, symbol of the donations she made. The inscription over the head of the emperor says: “Constantine, pious emperor in Christ the God, king of the Romans, Monomachus”. The inscription over the head of the empress reads as follows: “Zoë, the very pious Augusta”. Previous heads have been scraped off and replaced by the three present ones. One of the theories is that this mosaic had been made for an earlier emperor and empress, with their heads changed later on into the present ones.

The Imperial Gate Mosaic

The Imperial Gate mosaic is located in the tympanum above that gate, which was used only by the emperors when entering the church. Based on style analysis, it has been dated back to the late 9th or early 10th century. The emperor with the nimbus/halo could possibly represent emperor Leo VI the Wise or his son Constantine VII Porphyrogenitus bowing down before Christ who is  seated on a jeweled throne, giving His blessing and holding an open book in His left hand. The text on the book reads as follows: “Peace be with you. I am the light of the world”. (John 20:19; 20:26; 8:12) On each side of Christ’s shoulders is a circular medallion: on His left, Archangel Gabriel holding a staff, on His right His Mother Mary.

Source: Wikipedia

Ο χρόνος, το κλίμα και οι σεισμοί έχουν σημαδέψει την Αγία Σοφία μέσα στους αιώνες και τις τελευταίες δεκαετίες είναι ασταμάτητες οι εργασίες αποκατάστασης του ναού, τόσο στους εξωτερικούς όσο και στους εσωτερικούς χώρους (σε πολλές από τις φωτογραφίες μου είναι εμφανείς οι σκαλωσιές). Ωστόσο γίνονται προσπάθειες να ολοκληρωθούν φέτος το καλοκαίρι καθώς ο ναός θα χρησιμοποιηθεί στα γυρίσματα νέας ταινίας βασισμένης στα περίφημα πλέον βιβλία του Dan Brown και ο… καθηγήτης Robert Langdon βιάζεται να σεργιανίσει στα μωσαϊκά της ανεμπόδιστος!!

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Time, weather and earthquakes have taken their toll on Hagia Sophia through the years, so restoration works have been constantly conducted in the past decade(s) —something that is painfully obvious in lots of my images even though I did my best to avoid scaffoldings and random wires! Nowadays there’s a commitment to complete all restoration processes by this coming fall because… Hollywood is calling: the site will be used in the new Dan Brown movie and Robert Langdon (aka Tom Hanks) will supposedly be running all over the place!!

*images by Athina D. Pantazatou for Kicking Back the Pebbles