Traianoupoli & Feres: Exploring History

A Journey Through Time – Traianoupoli & Feres.

Tucked away in northeastern Greece, in the region of Thrace, the regional unit of Evros hides gems that escape the usual tourist radar. Two such places—Traianoupoli and Feres in the municipality of Alexandroupolis—offer a fascinating mix of Byzantine and Ottoman heritage. While often overshadowed by Greece’s more famous historical sites, these locations house two remarkable monuments that speak stories of empires, faith, and architectural mastery.

The Evrenos Bey Han in Traianoupoli

The Evrenos Bey Han, also known as the Hana of Traianoupoli, was a caravanserai (an inn that provided lodging for travelers, merchants, and caravans) which, along with the Imaret of Komotini, claims the title of the oldest Ottoman monuments in the Balkans. Built in 1370–90 by Gazi Haci Evrenos Bey at the Traianoupoli Baths, just twelve kilometers northeast of Alexandroupolis, the Han is a long, rectangular, 38.8 x 13 m/127 x 43 ft building.

Traianoupoli, an important Roman city founded by the emperor Marcus Ulpius Traianus (fl. 1st century CE) on the ancient Via Egnatia network, was the metropolis of the ecclesiastical province of Rhodope during Byzantine rule, known for its thermal springs.

The Han functioned as an inn near the Ottoman baths complex, of which ruins dating to the sixteenth century remain. As a public utility project, it held a certain grandeur and was characteristic of the expansive nature of the Ottoman Empire. As a monument, it differs from the corresponding Byzantine ones in architecture, size, and construction method, but it also features a slab of an early Christian pulpit at its base. Nowadays, there are modern spa therapy facilities near the archaeological site.

The Han in the 1930s. A rare photo from the Scrapbook of Thrace-Macedonia (Θρακική Στοά, Λεύκωμα Θράκης-Μακεδονίας, έτος 1932) published in Komotini in 1932. The caption reads, “The ancient springs of Feres Baths (aka Traianoupolis Baths).” Source: Wikimedia Commons

Theotokos Kosmosótira – The Heart of Feres

The Theotokos Kosmosótira [in Greek Θεοτόκος η Κοσμοσώτειρα (often transcribed Kosmosoteira), meaning World Savior Mother of God] is a Greek Orthodox monastery in Feres, Evros, Greece. It was built around 1152 by Isaac Komnenos, a son of the Byzantine emperor Alexios I Komnenos.

Isaac began constructing the monastery as his residence and final resting place sometime before 1152. At the time, the site, known as Bera (Greek: Βήρα, from the Slavic word for marsh), was an uninhabited and densely overgrown location, but it is also possible that the church was erected on the remains of an earlier, ancient Roman building.

The complex featured a double-fortified wall, with fortified gates and towers, the interior of which is traceable nowadays: it had a roughly hexagonal form, with towers at each corner, of which three survive in relatively good shape. It included a cistern, mill, and library, as well as a hospital for the elderly and a bathhouse open to the locals. Isaac endowed the monastery with extensive estates across Thrace to support its operation and ensure its financial independence. He also built two bridges over the Evros River and appointed the abbot responsible for their upkeep.

Thereafter, the monastery became the core of a larger settlement, which, due to the endemic wars of the 14th century, turned into the fortified town of Feres, where the locals sought refuge during invasions and civil wars. The Ottomans, who conquered Bera under Lala Shahin Pasha in the early 1370s, converted the church into a mosque by 1433. It was restored and reconsecrated as an Orthodox church in 1940.

What Else to See & Do

The surrounding area offers additional attractions:

• The Evros Delta National Park – A paradise for birdwatchers and nature enthusiasts.
• Traditional Taverns – Sample local Thracian cuisine, blending Greek and Anatolian influences.
• Nearby Alexandroupolis – A vibrant coastal city with museums, nightlife, and a scenic lighthouse.

Travel Tips for Visiting

• Best Time to Visit: Spring and autumn offer pleasant weather and fewer crowds.
• Getting There: Located near Alexandroupoli, both towns are easily accessible by car, making them a convenient detour for history lovers.
• What to Bring: Comfortable shoes for exploring ruins and a camera to capture the breathtaking details of Theotokos Kosmosótira’s interiors.

*All info from wikipedia
Images by Athina D. Pantazatou for Kicking Back the Pebbles